It's the autumn in 2016, which should be the best time to visit Xiapu, the largest, original fishing beach in China as I know. As so many people traveling in Beijing, Shanghai and the boring great wall, well, it's only me, who thinks it's boring, especially when it comes across the crowded Chinese National Day. But in my mind, Xiapu is a noble land with the flavour of hometown.
DAY 1, THE VERY LIGHT
I lived in Shenzhen at that time. It took me about six hours from Shenzhen North Railway Station to Xiapu Railway Station, passing Chaoshan, Xiamen and Quanzhou city. Xiamen is also a great city. I have visited it four times. What a pity that I didn't know there is an amazing place close to Xiamen, it's just two hours by the high speed train from Xiamen to Xiapu!
I heard of Xiapu just for a beautiful and hot photo on internet. I can't find it now. There were many local fishers on their boats, casting nets on the sea, with the sun setting and the water tiding. It's almost a dream land.
It's 2:00pm when i arrived. A small typhoon just passed by. I felt so light when the fresh air spread in my lung. There were lots of local drivers taking people to Sansha East Beach, where most visitors would go. The car ticket price is 15 RMB per person. It's a coincidence that I was going to Sansha East Beach to watch the sunset. But I have no place to set my luggage, so i went to the hostel first.
The public bus is cheap, 1.5 RMB for one. My hostel is not far from the railway station. And there is only one hostel in Xiapu. I put down my luggage and went to the Sansha East Beach. It just passed 4:00 pm. Waiting is the most important part of a trip.
The sun set at 6:00 pm. First it was orange. Then it turned into red. After no more than two minutes, the sky and the sea just turned into a dark red with purple. And then, there came the blue, deep blue.
Golden is the winner.
Ok. The hostel operator called me and asked if I would like to back for a big seafood meal. Absolutely!
DAY 2 SUNRISE
I made two Chinese friends in the hostel at dinner. So, we, instead of me, rented a car together to west and south part of Xiapu. There are lots of sights around the two areas. It's not convenient for a self travel. It's expensive and wastes too much time.
We got up at 4:00 am in order to see the sunrise. Thanks to the driver. The best scenery came without voice.
It took us half an hour from the Xiapu downtown to Beiqi Beach 北岐滩涂. There were several cars together with ours, all of them heading to Beiqi Beach where we can watch the most stunning sunrise.
The good news is that there was no ticket office, no need for a ticket. We walked in and the road extended long directly into the mountains.
There were boats, mountains and the sea. It's such a peaceful land with all glorious people and things chasing upon the sea. The scenery would be better when the tide ebbs. The big tide would come on the third and eighteen day every month according to the traditional Chinese lunar calendar.
It's 7:00 am after I left the beach. I went back to the downtown and found a Zaodian Morning Stall on Taikang Rd 泰康路 for my breakfast. It's right in front of the big Culture Square.
There were so many many local Xiapu foods and Fujian dishes. I had a cup of Soybean Milk and Zha Nuo Mi Ci, the fried rice cake.
I heard of a kind of soup from the local chinese. It's called Hu Tang soup. But I was so full. After a short rest, i walked to the S Bay in Shajiang, a small but nice place.
I climbed on the roof and payed 20 RMB for the entrance. And the roof was made well for sightseeing.
Here I saw the Bun Hill 馒头山. Bun Hill is special. She is alone, standing here far from her brothers in the distant. This is said to be a good spot to watch the sunrise. But as I have enjoyed the sunrise at Beiqi Beach, there is no need to watch another show more though it shall be beautiful too.
It was 11:00 am when i reached the Bun Hill. I stayed for almost 40 minutes to enjoy the stunning sea and the grand beach. One local Chinese old woman asked where did the tide ebb to? Well, it's hard to answer. I couldn't just say it's still in the ocean. And i thought it had some unspoken meanings. Maybe about afterlife. Who knows. Maybe I was too young to understand it.
Sometimes, I find that, the more I travel, the more I know and the more I discover, the more difficultly I could give an answer. It makes me feel better. Just follow the heart, maybe I have watched and heard so many, I thought like that. The answer is in books, movies, video games, math and science, but not in life. Was the fishermen thinking as I was thinking when they were trekking on the sea? Did the old Chinese woman know the answer？ I thought they did. There shall be no difference between us and them.
BAN YUE LI FOLK VILLAGE
On the road heading to the Banyueli Folk Village where the local She people lives, I saw many grapefruit trees. Yesterday when I was in Sansha East Beach, the old Chinese close by shared some grapefruits with me. The grapefruits were pretty great and flavorful.
There was a big Ficus microcarpa tree at the entrance of the village. The sun was shining on the leaves, leaving pieces of shadows on the ground. It was just so beautiful!
There were people talking about some happy things. I didn't know their language. It‘s different with mandarin.
The local TV was filming a documentary here.
This is a private museum.
I had lunch here. All foods were fresh. The vegetables were planted in their own farm.
I headed to the Youcaiyu to watch the Fishing Rafts in Dongan 东安. It's a place called Dong An. There was a hill in Youcaiyu, not high, just ten minutes walking. This hill is the best place to take a overlook on the rafts.
It really shocked me when I first saw the huge area of rafts and I knew that were the local's home, their living house.
Xiaqingshan Bridge might be the best place to watch the sunset.
DAY 3 LOCAL LIFE
I was too tired last night. I snoozed at morning and got up late. Then got on the bus at Xiapu Bus Station to Yangjiaxi Rongfeng Park. The ticket price is 20 Yuan.
Don't be confused. They are models. They acted as the ancient farmers.
Yangjiaxi is at the north of Xiapu, quite far, one hour bus. I was planing to get back to the hostel and have a rest. But there was just a bus to Sansha Town. So i thought, why not going to Xiaohao, Sanshan for lunch.
What to eat? Aha fresh seafood.
It's a samll village. No cars, just few bicycles. I walked to the east after lunch.
Sunset started at 6:00pm. I like this peaceful land.
DAY 4 Yushan Island 嵛山岛
The bus transferred several times and stopped at Sansha Gucheng Port where i bought a ship ticket to the island. 50 Yuan. That was a slow boat to China i thought. I fell asleep on the ship.
It needed a island ticket and a bus ticket. I bought them at a student price, 80 Yuan. Well it's ok to hike into the island. But it's a long way without a bus.
Everywhere the natives sold seafood.
Camping is a good choice.
I can stay a whole day here.
I bought a ticket back to the Gucheng Port at 1:00pm. It's fine to get back before 2:00pm, when is the last ship returns.
This was my lunch. 15 Yuan. I love it.
It was 3:00pm when I arrived at Xiapu downtown. I bought some snacks at the Walmart. I saw the museum here but it was closed.
DAY 5 Parting surprise
The returning high speed train would go at noon. So I just got up and went to watch the sunrise again.
I think I have seen the Jesus Light.
I love this small city. I will be back.